By Kristin Gennuso, Chez Pascal

I was sitting at the edge of the beach; my toes were finding a warm haven in the sand, the briny air was playing an aromatic symphony in my nose. Suddenly, the sea rolled up, and with it came the most glorious epiphany! Scallops and rosemary and countless other delectable morsels were forcing their way into my consciousness, leaping from my head; it was all I could do to contain them before I made my way to the kitchen and put forth my new masterpiece.

Capturing the moment when a new dish is created may very well happen like the above, a romantic notion reminiscent, perhaps, if J. Peterman had a culinary catalog. Having been on the receiving end of the question, “Where did that idea come from?” I thought it an interesting subject worth exploring. While some ideas do absolutely find their way from out of the blue, others require a little coaxing. In an effort to explore the annals of the culinary mind, I decided to see what goes on behind the scenes before the ingredients connect together and find their way to your plate. To accomplish this I tapped the brain of the first guy who ruined me forever for bad food. We met while working together at a restaurant (as a lot of restaurant romances go) he in the back, I in the front. After leaving that job (and having had many years under our belt in the industry already) we set out to open our own restaurant. We soon did so in the form of Chez Pascal in Providence. We got married along the way and therefore I have been granted access to his culinary mind with little chance of him escaping.

Roulade

In discussing the cooking process, I was reminded of what Scott Turrow, the writer, aptly said about art beginning with the maker, not the audience. It can be agreed that cooking is also an art form. It can be studied for years, has different styles to be learned and different palates to please. When in its stride it speaks to the cook much like a blank canvas speaks to a painter. It comes naturally to some and not so much to others. Confident that my drawing skills will never reveal my true age and my sauces will always be lacking… something… I find it quite fascinating to stumble across those whose passion is tangible. So, this is not an attempt to explain culinary creativity, as that is as personal as it is individual, but merely to identify it, and be grateful to be in its wake.

When creating a dish in a restaurant there is often a clear method involved sprinkled with a healthy dose of imagination. The challenges rest in two key factors: consistency and execution. A fantastic idea may by formed, a dish that would most certainly knock diners socks off, but if it is not properly executed within the confines of what is possible in the restaurant, then you must opt for keeping the socks on and under your tables, rather than having them walk begrudgingly out your door.

In New England we have a canvas that is always changing; just before the root vegetables overstay their welcome, a different season is upon us. When creating a new dish, the season has the first word. Summer and winter menus have very different approaches. The colder months require the protein to dictate the dish. Produce is not as abundant and the method of cooking is more on the heavier side. In warmer months local produce is thriving. Protein takes a back seat to the fresh, fragrant gifts from the garden. A simple carrot has on more than one occasion been the star of many of our dishes. It is this same realization that produced our first Tomato Dinner and it’s the reason we continue it every year.

Carrot Mache Salad–a direct result of the beautiful carrots we got from
Diana Kushner's farm Arcadian Fields. They are orange in the middle and deep red on the outside,
such that when you cut them you can see the distinction.
To showcase their beauty, Matt simply cut them wafer thin like ribbons
and rolled them around fresh cheese.

So first we have the ingredient, whatever it may be; this is what gives the creative process momentum. One of the talents of being an accomplished cook is that you can taste with your mind. Somehow, past flavors, aromas and textures are stored up there, ready to be accessed when faced with an herb, vegetable or protein combination. Half the time our new dishes are tested in the brain and don’t even make it to the plate until its debut. One of my favorite ‘what were you thinking’ dishes was something we called Sweets from the Garden. It was a carrot cake terrine with cloumage cheese and a salad of candied carrots, cucumbers and dill ice cream. Texture and color always play a role when creating too. Matt always says to me “We often eat with our eyes”. Do we have that so far? We must taste with our minds and eat with our eyes! It sounds a bit more like science fiction than cooking. Ah, but I am not an unbeliever; I must admit the truth of it all even if my ‘mind tasting’ skills are not as refined. I once all too happily paired spaghetti with an unobliging Seven Seas vinaigrette as its sauce. The plate was just as unhappy to hold the creation as the stomach was to receive it. Ones weaknesses are just as necessary to realize as ones strengths.

Warm Salad of Red Cabbage with Walnuts, Apples, Blue Cheese Flan & Pumpkin Seed Oil. 

The next step the dish must now hurdle is whether it can be accomplished properly on the line. It has to taste and look as good whether you are making it for 2 people or 100. This is the clincher. If this is a ‘no’ then the dish, no matter how great it is, will not make it. Other things to consider are who is going to cook the dish: Garde manger, grill, sauté, pastry? What other commitments does that person already have, and will giving them this new dish weaken the output of existing dishes? You can’t have someone playing the horn section and then give them the drums too. Also taken into consideration is actual space on the line, pans needed, utensils needed, how many steps – literal steps- it takes to get from point A to B in order to finish the dish. Oh how many days I have lobbied for fried (anything really) and been told that we don’t have a fry-o-later and therefore my dreams of fried (anything) will not be possible as it can’t be done properly on a busy night. “What if I went around to people and explained to them the difficulty?” I would plead. Let it be known that I have tried, people. Sacrifices are made for the sake of proper implementation. Drat.

The final step is simply doing it. It has been conceived (cerebrally), deemed viable, and now it is plated. One of the constants of doing anything is that nothing is guaranteed. We have pulled the plug on dishes right smack in the middle of service because sometimes the errors don’t like to show themselves until you have invested enough time in them. Likewise, specials have been created in the spur of the moment. The process is somewhat formulaic but with a controlled “fly by the seat of your pants” approach. It is what gives energy to the inspiration, the uncertain certainty of it all. Truly, those who can cook carry that much needed certainty, or confidence, like a tool, as essential as a sharp knife. Confidence, not be confused with conceit, gives you the courage to try new things and get the job done. In the end, know that your favorite dishes are thought about, loved, hated and loved again. An inspired gift, wrapped up in an emotional, artistic and edible package.

http://chez-pascal.com/#press

photos by Chez Pascal

Wiener window (and bar!) construction is humming along at Chez Pascal! Tucked in a cozy space next to the main bar, the wurst-nook is looking pretty snazzy–even in the magenta-haze of our poorly executed photo. There’s a full mini-kitchen being created behind that gorgeous new woodwork; Matt Gennuso tells us it should be all ready in April. We can’t wait to stand in line! Still no word on the name, though….

In case you missed it, here’s the original Rhode Palate wurst-window Q&A with Kristin Gennuso:

http://rhodepalate.com/2011/11/28/chez-pascal-brings-us-the-wurst-news-ever/

The hiss of the radiator. The crack of the fire. The clink-clank of the baseboard. Whatever your poison, the price of cozy toes is always the same: dry as bone. Upside? The crisp, cool white wines of winter. I’m not talking run-of-the-mill sauvignon blanc–the kind you chug in summer with reckless abandon. I’m talking about flavorful whites that whet your whistle, go great with food, and give even the driest room a hydrating kick. Here are two value-priced newbies that I’m counting on to see me through until spring:

Milbrandt Traditions 2010 Chardonnay

Straight up: this wine is a steal. Balanced and easy, this wine splits the difference between the deep, buttery flavors of oak aged wines and the clean finish imparted by the mighty steel barrel. 50/50 steel/oak aged, this wine extracts the best from each. The oak imparts substance and structure, the steel crisps and smooths, making this wine approachable, fruit driven but not sweet, and totally drinkable. With aromas of tropical fruit and subtle pear and vanilla flavors, this wine is perfect to have on hand for people who both adore AND abhor the oft-maligned Chardonnay grape. Recently named one of the US’s top 5 wineries by Food & Wine magazine, this vineyard is pioneering sustainable production and supplies grapes to some of the top producers in Washington State. Screw top. Under $14. But no one will know unless you tell ‘em!

Bodegas Eidosela Albarino 2010

Discovering this wine was what hungry cows feel must feel when fate delivers them a field of virgin alfalfa: deeply satisfying. Green apples, orchard fruits, and a  balanced acidity that comes alive in your mouth. This small-production, sustainably-produced Spanish stunner was born for food, killer with seafood, salads, roasted veg, oysters, poultry and pork. I poured this wine at Thanksgiving and it kicked ass, cutting through the buttery mash of starch and gravy like nobody’s business. Fronkin’ good, in a big way, at under $15 a bottle.

I purchased both of these wines at East Side Pharmacy on Hope St, but they’re available across the state. So if you dehydrate and die this winter, you have no one to blame but yourself.

A disclaimer: both of these wines are sold by Andrea Sloan, also of Rhode Palate. I’m not gonna kid you…Andrea has rocked my world by introducing me to dozens of wines that are now among my favorites. Some she sells. Some she doesn’t.  So, if this piece makes you buy a bottle of the aforementioned winter whites, she’ll earn about forty-six cents. Despite the lure of four dimes and a nickel, she in no way encouraged me to write this review.

by Leigh Ranucci, Wine Traditions, LTD

When it comes to schlepping for the holidays, I strap on my party shoes and take the high road. Eat your heart out Arthur Miller, I walk with Champagne!

I’m not talking about Dom Perignon to match my Louis Vuittons (LVMH you eat your heart out). This is grower-Champagne. Farmer Fizz. Down to earth glamour. Unexpectedly gorgeous. Made from scratch, vine to bottle, by farmers from small, independently owned family estates. No time, no mind for serfdom. The New Wave of Champagne.

Wine Traditions imports Champagne from three independent producers, each producing in separate areas in the Champagne appellation, each with different soils, climates and grape plantings, each with completely distinctive results. Following is a selection from each producer. Check out www.winetraditions.com to read about all of their wines.

R. Dumont Pere et Fils Solera Reserve NV, 100% Chardonnay (Aube)

The property is located in the southeastern corner of Champagne in the Côte de Bar, close to Chablis, and shares the same Kimmeridgian soils as Chablis.

Dumont is one of the very few Champagne producers to produce a Champagne using the solera method. Beginning in 1991, Bernard Dumont dedicated one stainless steel tank to Chardonnay, ⅓ of which he bottles and then replaces by fermented juice from the current vintage, making it at present, a blend of approximately 20 vintages. This solera system produced its first release in 2010. Production is about 400 cases annually. The result is sophisticated and complex; a blend of wine on its tertiary aspects – at the core earthy and rich aged Chardonnay, balanced and heightened with fresh elements of younger wine. Dosage is low at 6 grams.

José Michel et Fils Brut NV “ Pinot Meunier” (Côtes d’Epernay)

José Michel has somewhat of a cult following for his Champagnes. This “Maison de Tradition” began in 1847 and five generations later the Michels still carry on an artisanal sensibility to their craft. They are located in Moussy, a small village just south of Epernay.

Richard Juhlin, had this to say in his review of 2000 Champagnes:

“The two great exceptions that prove the rule about the maturing potential of Pinot Meunier are Krug and José Michel.”

José Michel is one of very few producers to bottle a Champagne of 100% Pinot Meunier. The wine is extraordinary; vinous, grapey, earthy and rich – it is exemplary of a Champagne that is meant to pair with food; duck breast, squab(!), pheasant w/ reduced sauces w/winter herbs and fruit compotes. In a pinch, just Roquefort. Killer.

Thierry Triolet Brut Rose NV (Côtes de Sezanne)

The Champagne house of Thierry Triolet is located in the village of Bethon in the Côtes de Sezanne region of Champagne, traditionally, a source of excellent Chardonnay grapes for the large negociant Champagne houses to the north.

Triolet’s Rosé Champagne combines a base of Chardonnay with 15% red wine. The red wine is a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The wines are blended and the “assemblage” undergoes the second fermentation followed by an extended period “sur lattes”. The result is a charming Rosé Champagne, w/ lovely saturation of medium pink color, wildly redolent of field strawberries, pure, delicately fruity and mouthfilling. This reaches beyond the mere imitation of glamour, this is true romance. Drink it. Feel it.

More on schlepping from Rhode Palate: Schlep of a Salesman

There’s an Arthur Miller quote that goes “Glamour, that trans-human aura or power to attract imitation, is a kind of vessel into which dreams are poured, and some vessels are simply worthier than others.” To the wine and spirits rep, that vessel is often a 750ml bottle; many have been wooed by the idealized history of the liquid within, the romance and allure that is fine wine and craft spirits. Oh, the glamour of it all! So we find ourselves hawking our sexy wares, dreaming of esoteric case-stacks & the day when Merlot is no longer a dirty word – Cheval Blanc IS Merlot, dammit.

And so…

We dip our toes into the shallow end of high society and slake the indiscriminate thirst of the hapless. When a nation lifts its empty glass to swill, we swirl.

When we emerge from the vapors of dreamy notions, we find that the job is more Willy Loman than Marilyn Monroe – or perhaps some strange mash-up of the two. But we can’t resist the charm of a good story in a bottle, so we end here with another Arthur Miller quote:

“Don’t be seduced into thinking that that which does not make a profit is without value.”

It’s the eclectic little no-name wines and spirits that keep a lot of us in this game; if we can make a buck or two at it, fantastic. In the meantime, we’ll drink like the 1% and live like the 99.

Here are some boozy holiday suggestions from members of the tribe:

Howard Mahady, Wine Wizards:

A couple of great bottles for the table, or as gifts…

Lioco Chardonnay Russian River 2010 Approximate retail $33

Lioco is a small “virtual” winery owned by Matt Licklider (a wine industry veteran in California) and Kevin O’Connor (former wine director at Spago Beverly Hills). One of their core beliefs is the idea that careful vineyard selection along with minimal wine making intervention will produce wines with a true sense of place. They tend to favor minimal use of oak and make wines that display grace and balance versus sheer power. Their 2010 Russian River Chardonnay is from a selection of vineyards that are located 8-10 miles from the coast in relatively cool climate sites. This proximity to the Pacific Ocean necessitates an extended growing season, which helps to intensify the wines concentration and flavor. This wine is subtle and balanced with citrus and stone fruit aromatics, high toned acidity and a clean mineral tinged finish. With a modest alcohol level of 12.3% it is more reminiscent of Premiere Cru Chablis than the flabby, overworked Chardonnay typically encountered on our Rhode Island store shelves.

Vallana Spanna Colline Novaresi 2008 Approximate retail $20

The Vallana estate was founded in 1937 in an area situated in the Alto Piemonte, more than 100 miles north of Barolo. Its cool climate is not only conducive to growing Spanna (the local name for Nebbiolo) but also provides the perfect natural humidity and temperature for cellaring wine. Made from high-altitude vines planted in the 1960′s, it is a sensational value that combines earth, crisp red fruit notes, tar and spice with great concentration and length. Perfect with any roast meats and hearty cheeses.  Fans of old school Nebbiolo will love this!

For a gift or a real treat…

Monteverdi “Nocino della Cristina” Walnut Liqueur Approximate retail $35

Nocino della Christina is produced by Monteverdi Spirits, a small company in Napa Valley. Nocino is a traditional Italian walnut liqueur made from unripe walnuts, alcohol (typically brandy) and an infusion of whole natural spices. Dark molasses in color, it is richly flavored with aromas of green walnuts, spice and ripe berry notes. Too stuffed for dessert? This delicious digestivo will not only serve to calm your stomach down but can also be a sophisticated coda to your holiday meal. As a bonus it is naturally made without the use of artificial colors, flavors or stabilizers.

Sally Donahue, Best Beverage:

Medici Ermete Lambrusco Approximate retail $13

The holidays are the time of year when we get together, entertain & splurge on eating and drinking. For me, my edible splurges are with salty foods…hard cheeses, olives & crusty bread. What do I want to drink alongside these? LAMBRUSCO…true Lambrusco, nothing like Riunite. Lambrusco is a red fizzy wine from Emilia Romagna, Italy. It can range from off-dry to bone-dry. I prefer dry but if you have a sweet tooth then seek out an off-dry version such as Medici Ermete Bocciolo Grasparossa (yummy). My top pick for value & taste is Medici Ermete Quercioli Lambrusco. It has beautiful dark purple/black color with flavors of pomegranate, currants, cranberry and just a touch of earthiness. It is perfect with salty foods and especially an antipasto platter with cured meats as well.

Borgo Salcetino Chainti Classico Approximate retail $16

Now for a gift idea…if your special someone loves “true, old-school” Chianti, then Borgo Salcetino Chainti Classico is a slam-dunk! This bottle screams Italy with its concentrated cherry fruit, zippy acids and a streak of earth. Red gravy and pasta + Borgo Salcetino Chianti = MAGIC!

Meara O’Connell, 2FlyRI:

Haute Cabriere’s Pierre Jourdan Cuvee Belle Rose (NV) Approximate retail $30

Haute Cabriere’s Pierre Jourdan Cuvee Belle Rose from Franschoek, South Africa is a great way to start your holiday meal. A beautiful salmon-pink color, this 100% Pinot Noir is produced using Method Cap Classique, a traditional method with a secondary fermentation in the bottle. This method provides soft bubbles that send the aroma of red berries through your nose. The wine has a delicate fresh strawberry flavor with a beautifully creamy texture. This makes for a great hostess gift or a perfect pair with shellfish appetizers.

Botanica Chenin Blanc, 2009 Approximate retail $23

The maiden voyage of Massachusetts native Ginny Povall, this Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch, South Africa has something for everyone! Fermented both in French oak and in stainless steel tanks, the wine has a beautifully rich palate, with flavors of green apples, apricot and honey. This is a mouth filling wine with a firm acidity, making it great on its own or paired with roasted turkey or oven baked ham.

Big Flower Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Approximate retail $17

This is another great wine by winemaker Ginny Povall. She tends to her grapes by hand to ensure the best possible wine. This Cabernet is light bodied, but with big flavor – Cassis, anise spice, black berry, black berry and earth. It finishes strong with bright tannins balanced by soft acidity. This wine is screaming for some lean flank steak or spicy sausage.

 More on schlepping from Rhode Palate: Schlepping for Champagne

This is Rhode Island, home of free-thinking, outspoken misfits, so we really don’t care what you call the tree you stick in your living room in hopes that presents will magically appear beneath it (fingers-crossed for a Lexus in a bow this year!). But if you’re looking for a freshly cut tree at a reasonable price, we recommend Mike’s Christmas Tree Farm in Cranston. Take a relaxing stroll through this supposed-to-be-winter wonderland and choose from Frasier Firs, Balsam, Douglas Firs, Spruce – and this cool fluffy looking, pale-green pine tree we picked up-if only we could remember the name! Mike and co were super friendly and helpful – and they even have a turkey!

Open daily, 9am-7pm thru Christmas Eve.

Rhode Palate talked with Rob Booz of Chefs Collaborative & Derek Wagner from nicks on broadway (also co-leader of the Chefs Collaborative RI Network) about the role of farmers, chefs & Chefs Collaborative in the farm-to-fork movement, the challenges they face, and what can be done to make local & sustainable food as affordable and accessible as possible. It’s a great topic and we thank both of them –and many, many others – for their dedication to the cause.

Rob Booz, Network Coordinator: Chefs Collaborative

What is Chefs Collaborative?

Chefs Collaborative is a member based national non-profit. We stress the importance of community and education in furthering sustainability within the food service industry. In my role, that includes working directly with chefs in their respective communities but that is just one part of what we do. We provide chefs with educational opportunities and materials on sourcing and once a year we hold a national summit to help like-minded chefs develop networks throughout the country – because Chefs Collaborative is really about the chefs that it’s composed of.

When it comes to the number of farmers, chefs & restaurants involved, how does RI compare with the other states in the Chefs Collaborative network?

Rhode Island is amazing. I can’t say concretely whether there are more or less chefs/restaurants/farmers involved by the numbers but I can tell you the level of involvement is incredible. One of the things that constantly impresses us about Rhode Island is the way in which everyone is willing to cooperate and work towards common goals. This is only possible because of the level of communication and camaraderie among all the active players.

Times are tough these days. What kind of impact, if any, does that have on the Chefs Collaborative mission?

The poor economy affects everyone. It hits CC in a few different ways. For one thing restaurants are having a tough go of it because customers don’t have the disposable assets that they have had in the past. It can be hard to convince people with shrinking profit margins that it’s worth it to spend a little extra money on more responsible ingredients. Luckily for us a lot of chefs out there understand that local and sustainable often equate to high quality and are willing to go the extra mile. Further, as a member-driven non-profit, we have to cope with chefs having to pick and choose whom they want to spend money on; there are a lot of organizations trying to make food more responsible, but we have really pioneered this concept. The restaurant industry is our only priority as opposed to other groups who focus more on food in general.

We Rhode Islanders think we’re pretty darn fantastic when it comes to the food scene; do you think we’re ahead of the curve in this movement, or is that just our small-state-syndrome revealing itself?

I don’t know if ahead of the curve is the right term so much as redefining the curve. As I said before, Rhode Island is so impressive in the way it operates and in the quality of the food it produces — from farm and fishers to table. If every state could find ways to forge the relationships that Rhode Island has in its food supply change we would all be in a much better place and I might be out of a job.

Derek Wagner, Chef/owner: nicks on broadway

You are heavily involved in the farm-to-fork movement in RI and are a Co-Leader (along with Jake Rojas of Tallulah on Thames) of the Chefs Collaborative Rhode Island Network. You must see the challenges every day in getting people to embrace the concept of locally sourced foods. Not counting the fact that factory food is much cheaper than local & sustainable, why aren’t more people doing it?

Yes, I am heavily involved in the farm to fork/table movement, it’s not only part of what we do every day at nicks, it’s really our philosophy and way of operating; its our mentality, and our goal on a daily basis. Yes, there are so many challenges to making local and sustainable eating/purchasing more of a part of people’s daily lives. I think we are finally getting to an exciting place where more people are learning about and trying to participate in the local food systems, and it seems that the numbers are increasing every day. Of course there is always some resistance to changing habits, or the way people think or live their lives, but the major challenges that I see are availability/access and cost. With all of the information available to us now as consumers – and there’s more each day – the choices are becoming obvious, but the means to make those choices regularly are still out of grasp for most people. We are all trying to change that. We are fighting to give farmers more business and an opportunity to compete in the market place, which will in turn lead to them being able to bring more products to market and make their products more accessible in price and in volume.

Since the culinary scene is so important to RI, and is such an important part of the overall economy, what kind of policy changes would make it easier for this movement to thrive?

Where do I even begin? In regards to farmers, I am not as well versed on all the adversities they face, but in talking to many of my farmer friends, I know that the taxes on property and farm land make it hard to operate and even harder to expand and grow a healthy business. For restaurants and small businesses in general (including the farmers) we face so much here in RI in the way of red tape, archaic processes, inefficient regulation and high start-up/operational costs, which makes it so hard to open, operate or grow any type of small business. Taxes and insurance regulations are extremely high, some of the highest in the country, which also makes the small business environment tumultuous and costly. Small businesses are the backbone of the RI economy; the food scene and its related industries are a huge percentage of that. It’s also an area with big potential for growth, both with job creation and increased taxable revenues from small businesses. In effect, easing the tax burden and the governmental fees and regulations on farmers and restaurants would in many ways allow us to strengthen this movement and the health of local businesses in general.

Any plans on bringing Chefs Collaborative events/seminars/classes to the public schools of RI?

No formal plans to get into public schools on a regular basis yet, but many of us spread the word and speak when asked at both public and private events. I’ve spoken to classes at Johnson & Wales University, and continue to do so. I have also spoken with students from URI, RIC and Brown about our message and the issues. We also do several events throughout the year promote and celebrate the local food movement. I believe it’s important to start teaching people at a younger age though, and I would love to get more involved with that. What we are trying to do is get people to understand why it is so important to support local food systems, taste being only the first reason. Starting at an earlier age only increases the chances of this sticking with people and becoming part of their lives, and not just a passing trend.

What have you learned from being a part of Chefs Collaborative? How have you applied what you’ve learned?

The information that’s available is incredible, but it’s the connection with the people that I’ve taken the most from. Meeting with like-minded people, who are passionate, knowledgeable and dedicated to their causes has not only informed me, but it inspires me to fight the good fight. All over the country (and the world) chefs, farmers, fisherman, foragers, artisans, producers, educators and writers are working towards bettering our food systems, our choices and our information stream – it’s exciting and important. Personally, I’ve been able to meet new chefs, new farmers, new fishermen, and learn about innovations and obstacles within the industry. I apply the thoughts and ideas that stem from these relationships and information on a daily basis. It makes me better at what I do, increasing my knowledge base, my resources and my drive to be better and make a positive difference.

www.chefscollaborative.org

www.nicksonbroadway.com

The ever changing exterior 

A Q&A with Kristin Gennuso of Chez Pascal

Recently, Rhode Palate chatted with Kristin Gennuso of Chez Pascal about the changes that are happening at the restaurant. We heard through the grapevine that a walk-up sausage/wiener/wurst window will soon (as in this spring) be gracing their elegant façade. This is the best wurst news ever! Of course, we needed to know more…

So Kristin, you guys have been doing the hot dog cart and the truck for quite a while, and now it looks like you’re putting a take-out window at the front of your restaurant? What’s going on?

The whole thing all came together in a flash, quite literally. Back in June a car hit the right side of our building, no one hurt thankfully, but when that happened the wheels (not the ones immersed in the façade) starting turning. We needed to fix the front, it was time to do something new, so what better way to capitalize on a dent than by making it bigger!

Have you always had this wurst window idea in mind?

We have wanted to do something with that side of the dining room for a long time. Matt has also wanted to do more with the house-made sausages that we have on the truck. Two originally very separate ideas somehow found their way morphing into one solution. Sometimes that little spark is all you need, and then the concept just flows.

Explain the concept. Will there be seating inside and out? What will be on the menu?

The concept is still in the development stage and is subject to change at a moments notice. At present, the idea is that the window will be open during the day as a replacement for our hot dog cart. It will be a ‘walk up window’ where you can order a hot dog and whatever the sausage or sandwich special of the day would be.

Seating is outside, and because of our outdoor license that we will get, one will be able to enjoy a hot dog with a beer or glass of wine, or martini if you like! Then… phase II…inside we are brainstorming about putting in a very small open kitchen in the front, on the other side of the wall from the bar. It will be simple, the main purpose of which is to cook the sausages. Top it all off with a small 4 or 5 seat bar/counter. Now if you can picture this, the side dining room where the High Top tables are will remain High Top. With the addition of the small kitchen and bar, this section will be able to enjoy the sausage menu and the regular Chez Pascal menu (the same situation will apply for the folks at the regular bar). The rest of the dining room will remain Chez Pascal menu only. At night, in nice weather, you will be able to use the walk up window too, but for the sausage menu only. Again…it’s a work in progress.

 The sausages will be the same sausages that we serve on the truck, but when eating in the restaurant (at night for instance) the sausages will be plated, not in a bun. The Chez Pascal influence will be running throughout.

Will the window be open year round? Any idea what the hours will be? 

Excellent question. Not sure just yet, to be continued.

What should one drink with ones wurst?

Ah, rosé definitely when available. I would lean more towards clean, crisp whites if you are inclined to drink wine, cider a must, and beer indeed.



What are some name suggestions you’ve thought of/received so far? Any real bad ones? Not that we’re going to try to out-do them or anything...

We are still looking so if anyone has an idea please feel free. Let’s see these are some that we have heard so far, not sure what the worst is… sausage bar, wurst bar/window, wiener bar (window), boudin bar, and quite simply: the other room.

Might there be an occasion for lederhosen?

Lederhosen is definitely underutilized. Any occasion that one sees fit to wear it, one should seize that opportunity.

Thanks Kristin! We’ll stay tuned for more wurst news! And we’ll try to think of some names that are fit to print. A challenge, indeed!

This is such a fantastic endeavor. Just one more thing that makes Providence awesome.

Sunday the 27th, from 10a-2p!

Come meet our farmers for an indoor market, pick up fresh produce, have some coffee and bakery treats, hear good tunes and enjoy the Grocery in its brand-new glory.

The Fertile Underground have undertaken the work of bringing fresh foods to our neighbors in the West Side. We have had great success sharing harvest among our garden members, friends & family. Now we are rallying for the cause of better health and quality foods for all hopeful residents.

To manifest this reality, we have formed a Worker-Cooperative, which is a business owned and controlled by workers. Everyone is welcome in our store; it is not a food co-op with special membership.

This is Community Supported Grocery and We Need Your Support!

Fertile Underground has traditionally organized communally, raising a range of support from a diverse network. We’ve formed a worker-cooperative to run the food distributions at 1577 Westminster and beyond. We are now working to bring the grocery to the much anticipated 1577 Westminster Street location, built by your West Broadway Neighborhood Association.

Fertile Underground conceptualize a beneficent neighborhood grocery with deep ties throughout the community. You can get involved.

http://fertileunderground.com/p/Index

The 3rd & final part in a series…Maybe.

After our first encounter with cocktails at the Dorrance, we knew once just wouldn’t be enough. So on another rainy night (what is this, Blade Runner?) we found ourselves again stationed at the bar in front of Jay Carr, as well as John Dille, who’s known to cook a thing or two over at the Garden Grille. The two of them collaborated on making us drinks that weren’t on the menu, with no input from us other than “make us something you think we would like.” They came up with some unexpected and exciting drinks that we’ve never had before but we’ll be certain to order again.

Our first libation was the 2-1-2. It showed up all frothy, pink & demure, served in a glass made in tribute to Marie Antoinette’s breasts. But, whoa, what was this? With aromas of smoke & earth, citrus & herbs, this drink was far more serious & masculine than it looked. Turns out that 2-1-2 stands for two parts Mezcal, one part Aperol, and two parts grapefruit. On the palate, it was a battle between smoky mescal and bright & bitter grapefruit, the Aperol bridging the divide with deeper notes of orange and spice. Drinking the 2-1-2 was like walking into a bathroom and being surprised by the Marlboro Man neck deep in bubbles and surrounded by candles. Maybe you weren’t quite sure what you were looking at, but you certainly had a whole new respect for the man.

Our second cocktail was the Trinidad Especial. As John and Jay said, this drink is Thanksgiving in a glass! On the nose it’s all pumpkin pie, mincemeat, cloves and allspice. It is a weird experience, indeed. When you drink it, all of the aforementioned notes are nearly blasted away by a cacophony of complex, bright, bitter, citrusy, cranberry-y (perhaps we were imaging this one?) flavors. This drink was dee-licious. Made with an ounce of Angostura Bitters, it is maybe not for everyone, but this is our holiday drink of choice. It would pair perfectly with the Thanksgiving meal, from turkey to pie. Seriously.

If you want to make this one at home for the holiday, here’s the recipe:

Place all the ingredients in a shaker filled with ice, and shake vigorously for about 30 seconds. Strain into a glass, garnish with a twist of lime if you’re so inclined & drink up!

The Dorrance, Part 1: http://rhodepalate.com/2011/10/31/chillin-like-gatsby-cocktails-at-the-dorrance/

Part 2: http://rhodepalate.com/2011/11/20/qa-with-the-dorrances-jesse-jay/